Just because we’re in the middle of summer, and produce is already finding its way to the table, that doesn’t mean the time for productive plantings has passed. A number of vegetables grow very well into autumn. In fact, farmers can put plants in until August and enjoy heartily growing vegetables well into the fall season – sometimes even after the first frost.
The secret to a successful mid-summer planting is knowing the average first frost date in your area. Keep in mind not all late vegetables can survive a frost. Knowing the first frost date and calculating the required number growing days to reach maturity will help you determine a good planting date. That means having to plan backwards, starting with your area’s average first frost date. Then look at the number of days to harvest the autumn vegetable you want to grow.
Using the “days to harvest” information as a starting point, count backwards from the first frost date. Finally, add two weeks because many autumn vegetables grow more slowly as days shorten and sunlight decreases.
For example: If your first fall frost typically occurs around Oct. 31 and you want to grow a vegetable which matures in about 25 days, plant it around Sept. 22.
The scorching hot summer days in August are when the warmer season fruits and vegetables like tomatoes, squash, sweet corn, melons, peppers and others thrive in the fields. Cooler season vegetables, such as kale and a few others in the cabbage family, may be some of the most prudent choices for a mid-summer planting because of their flexibility in cooler weather. An early frost will not kill them before they are ready to harvest and some cold-tolerant varieties actually have a better quality when grown in cooler weather.
Here’s a list of options to consider when contemplating your cooler climate’s cornucopia:
- Basil – Days to maturity: 30 – 60. Cold hardiness: Poor – killed by frost.
- Beets – Days to maturity: 50 – 60. Cold hardiness: Good – survives into high 20s.
- Bush Beans – Days to maturity: 45 – 65. Cold hardiness: Poor – killed by frost.
- Broccoli – Days to maturity: 50 – 70. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Brussels Sprouts – Days to maturity: 90 – 100. Cold hardiness: Great – survives down to 20º F.
- Cabbage – Days to maturity: 50 – 90. Cold hardiness: Great – survives down to 20º.
- Cauliflower – Days to maturity: 60 – 80. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Cilantro – Days to maturity: 60 – 70. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Collard Greens – Days to maturity: 40 – 65. Cold hardiness: Great – survives down to 20º.
- Garlic – Days to maturity: Harvest the following July. Cold hardiness: Overwinters in ground.
- Green Onion – Days to maturity: 60 – 70. Cold hardiness: Good – survives into high 20s.
- Kale – Days to maturity: 40 – 65. Cold hardiness: Great – survives down to 20º.
- Kohlrabi – Days to maturity: 50 – 60. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Leaf Lettuce – Days to maturity: 40 – 60. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Mustard Greens – Days to maturity: 30 – 40. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Peas – Days to maturity: 70 – 80. Cold hardiness: Good – survives into high 20s.
- Radishes – Days to maturity: 30 – 60. Cold hardiness: Excellent – dig up until soil freezes.
- Spinach – Days to maturity: 35 – 45. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost, but may overwinter.
- Swiss Chard – Days to maturity: 40 – 60. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
- Turnips – Days to maturity: 50 – 60. Cold hardiness: Fair – survives light frost.
Remember to turn over the soil and mix in some balanced fertilizer to replenish the soil after what your first crop used. Clearing leftover debris like stems and roots from the first planting will help to avoid problems with seed germination. Within a week to 10 days after prepping it, the soil will be ready for a second planting.
